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Radon Mitigation System FAQs

Radon mitigation systems utilize a system of pipes and a fan to pull the dangerous radon gas from a structure releasing it into the atmosphere, where it naturally exists. All radon mitigation systems have one goal: reduce or eliminate radon gas exposure inside your home or in your drinking water.

The EPA recommends homes that measure 4.0 pCi/L or higher have a radon mitigation system installed.

We have compiled a list of questions of frequently asked questions to better understand radon mitigation systems.

Where is my fan located?

Your fan is located outside your home OR in your attic based on ANSI-AARST Standards or state requirements.

How long do the fans last?

The fans are warranted for five years and typically last much longer.

How do I turn my fan off?

Every radon system has a disconnect. Sources of power for the fan are labeled for identification. The location of yours will be specified by your technician.

Does the fan run all the time, and how much electricity does it use?

Yes. In order to keep your radon levels low, it must run continuously and if shut off only briefly for maintenance. Most fans typically use less than 2 amps.

How much does it cost to run the fan?

Depending on the fan type and your local electrical costs, fans generally cost anywhere from $25 – $100/year to run and are very efficient.

How loud is the system?

It varies from home to home. In some case’s it just comes down to how sensitive you are to white noises. However, it is quieter than your other utilities and is usually comparable to a refrigerator fan.

What about rain, snow, and animals getting inside the pipe?

The system is designed to handle moisture. Our pipe is glued and has a natural slope down towards our collection point/sump pit. The constant air pressure deters animals away.

I’m really worried about rain getting inside of the pipe and I’m not concerned with code, can I put a cap on anyway?

Annually your system will only collect about 3 gallons of water. On a daily basis, your system has the potential to remove anywhere from 3 to 20 gallons of moisture a day. A cap will block that moistures ability to get removed from the system and can considerably shorten the life of your fan.

Why didn’t all the cracks get sealed?

Some cracks don’t communicate with the soil below it and therefore aren’t necessary to be sealed.

What does this gauge do?

The pressure gauge shows that the fan is operating and has instructions located on the sticker next to it. It also provides the technician with valuable information as to how much air the fan is moving from under your home. This gauge is not a measurement of radon levels.

Is there a cover or screen on the top of my vent stack?

No. Adding a cover to the top of the vent stack is not allowed as a standard installation per ANSI-AARST Standards and state requirements. Often this can plug with ice in northern climates and restricts the airflow that hinders the capability of your system. Remember the fan is continuously running and most critters and debris will avoid the airflow.

What if I need to remove the sump cover to replace my pump?

The cover is removable, and our radon pipe has a removable fitting to allow the pipe to be removed. The caulking is not permanent and its easiest to gently pry the cover-up with a screwdriver or small pry bar. The cover is also clear for your convenience so you can easily inspect your pump and water level.

When can I retest?

We generally ask that customers wait 4-5 days to retest. Starting too soon can show elevated levels that haven’t cleared out yet. If possible, time your test so that you can stop it on a Monday and have it off to the post office without delay. It is also recommended to not wait longer than 30 days.

My levels are barely above 4.0 pCi/L, can I just seal the cracks and openings and retest?

Sealing openings alone is not a stand-alone solution. It is most effective with an active depressurization system.

What happens if I do my follow up test and my levels are still elevated?

The simplest answer may be doing another test to determine if your levels are still high. If they are still high, we have options. We can make additional suction points to spread our pressure field and also increase your fan size to allow more airflow. Dependent on the home this may be adding an additional collection point or larger fan.